World class for beautiful boat trips, the local ferry ride from Komani to Tropja, Albania was spectacular. Along the way, the captain beach landed the rugged twin prop dropping off and picking up those living in the remotest areas not reachable by road. Two rambunctious kids teased us, the only foreigners taking passage. Peja beer, made in Peja, Kosovo, is by far the best beverage we have tasted in the Balkans. A darker-than-average pilsner tasting fresh and hearty, it was enjoyed en masse by the men on the early morning ferry ride.
The three hour trip ended on a dirt road where waiting minibuses scooped up passengers with their sacks of supplies. Two friendly men drove us over the alpine border crossing in Kosovo which was guarded by not only Kosovo police but also American and German representatives. On the other side, another round of Peja 500ml cans and a drop off in Gjakovë. The town was heavily affected by the Kosovo War; a chilling hilltop monument houses the remains of Kosovo 'martyrs against facism'.